The Differences Between Knit and Woven Fabric

When I first started sewing a little over three years ago, I was so confused by all of the different sewing lingo that experienced sewists used. I was especially confused about the difference between knit and woven fabric.

When I heard someone mention knit fabric, I thought they were referring to knitting… with knitting needles. I had no idea that you could sew with knit fabric let alone how many types of knit fabric there were!

On my blog, I focus on a lot of slow living topics. Sewing is definitely a way to slow down. Making clothes takes a lot of time and thought and practice, but it is well worth the investment.

If you’re new to sewing and are equally as confused as I was by all of the sewing terms, I want to help make it a little less complicated so that you can spend more time learning to sew and less time trying to understand the terms.

Keep reading to learn about the differences between knit and woven fabric, different types of each one, and ideas for how you can use these different fabrics.

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The Difference Between Knit and Woven Fabric

Knit and woven fabrics are two of the most commonly used types of textiles in the fashion industry. While they may look similar at first glance, these fabrics have some important differences that can affect how they look, feel, and perform. Understanding the differences between knit and woven fabrics can help you make more informed decisions when it comes to choosing the right fabrics for your projects.

Knit fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn, creating a stretchy, flexible material. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, are made by interlacing threads or fibers at right angles to each other, creating a rigid, structured material. While both types of fabrics are made by weaving together fibers, the way in which they are woven creates different characteristics in the final product.

How to Choose Between Knit or Woven Fabric for Your Sewing Project

One of the most noticeable differences between knit and woven fabrics is their stretchiness. Knit fabrics are known for their elasticity, which allows them to stretch and conform to the body. This makes them a popular choice for activewear, as well as for garments that need to be form-fitting. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, have little to no stretch, which makes them ideal for more structured garments like dress shirts, jeans, and coats.

Another important difference between knit and woven fabrics is their durability. Knit fabrics tend to be less durable than woven fabrics, as their loops can snag or break more easily. However, knit fabrics are often more comfortable to wear, as they are softer and more flexible than woven fabrics. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, are more durable and can withstand wear and tear better than knit fabrics. This makes them a great choice for garments that need to be able to stand up to regular use.

When choosing fabric for a sewing project, it’s important to consider both the aesthetic and functional qualities of the fabric. You’ll also want to see if the pattern you are using was designed for knit fabric, woven fabric, or both.

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Types of Knit and Woven Fabric

Here are some types of knit and woven fabrics, and how they are typically used when making clothes:

Knit Fabric Types

Jersey:

A lightweight knit fabric that is soft and stretchy. Jersey is commonly used for t-shirts, dresses, and skirts.

Sewing Pattern: Snap Sleeper by Lowland Kids

Rib Knit:

A stretchy knit fabric that has vertical ridges. Rib knit is often used for cuffs, collars, and waistbands on garments. It can also be used for fitted garments.

Sewing Pattern: Jada Ballet Knit Wrap Top by Isa In Stitches

French Terry:

French terry is a type of knit fabric that is typically made from cotton. It is named after the type of weave used to create the fabric, which is a variation of the looped terry fabric used for towels. French terry is usually characterized by its soft, smooth face and looped back, which creates a soft texture and helps to wick away moisture. This fabric is often used to make comfortable and casual clothing items such as sweatshirts, joggers, and hoodies. It is also sometimes used in activewear, as it is breathable and stretchy.

Sewing Pattern: Sweater Romper by Lowland Kids

Waffle:

Waffle knit fabric is a type of knit fabric with a distinct waffle-like texture. It is made using a knitting technique that creates a three-dimensional square pattern, with raised squares on one side of the fabric and indentations on the other. The pattern resembles a waffle, hence the name “waffle knit.” Waffle knit fabric is typically made from cotton or cotton-blend yarns, which makes it breathable and comfortable to wear. It is often used for casual clothing items, such as thermal shirts, pajamas, and robes, as well as for home textiles like blankets and towels. The texture of waffle knit fabric allows it to be more absorbent than other types of knit fabrics, making it a popular choice for towels and washcloths. It is also a popular choice for winter clothing items, as the textured pattern provides added insulation and warmth.

Sewing Pattern: Pacific Pullover by Petite Stitchery

Slub:

Slub knit is a type of knit fabric that is characterized by its irregular, slightly bumpy texture. The texture is created by the intentional use of thick and thin yarns in the knitting process, which creates an uneven surface. The term “slub” refers to the thicker sections of yarn in the fabric that create the bumps and irregularities. Slub knit fabric is often made from natural fibers such as cotton, linen, or silk, and can be used to create a range of clothing items, including t-shirts, dresses, and sweaters. It is a popular choice for casual clothing, as the textured surface gives it a relaxed and slightly rustic feel. The uneven texture of slub knit fabric can also help to hide imperfections in the fabric or garment, making it a good choice for items that are meant to have a slightly worn or vintage look.

Sewing Patterns: Summer Cami and Shorties by Lowland Kids

Woven Fabric Types

Denim:

A heavy, durable cotton fabric that is often used for jeans and jackets.

Jeans: Mom Jeans by Levi’s (Purchased Secondhand on Poshmark)

Silk:

Silk is renowned for its softness, smoothness, and lustrous appearance. It has been highly valued for thousands of years due to its unique qualities and the intricate manufacturing process required to produce it. Silk fabric has a natural sheen that reflects light, giving it an elegant and opulent look.

Silk is known for its excellent draping qualities, which make it ideal for creating flowing and elegant garments such as dresses, blouses, and scarves. It is also used for high-quality bedding, upholstery, and various home decor items.

 Shirt: Silk Cami by Everlane (Purchased Secondhand on ThredUp)

Wool:

Wool woven fabrics offer numerous benefits due to the properties of wool fibers. They are known for their warmth, as wool has excellent insulation properties and can retain heat even when wet. Wool is also highly breathable, moisture-wicking, and resistant to odors, making it suitable for a range of climates and activities.

Wool woven fabrics come in various types and patterns, including plain weaves, twills, herringbone, houndstooth, and tartans. Each weave structure produces a different texture and visual effect. The choice of weave can influence the fabric’s strength, drape, and appearance.

These fabrics are commonly used in the production of clothing items such as suits, trousers, skirts, jackets, and outerwear. Wool woven fabrics are also utilized for home furnishings like upholstery, curtains, blankets, and rugs.

Sewing Patterns: Birch Jumper and Arlo Turtleneck by Petite Stitchery

Boots: Carmen Chelsea Boots in Almond by Nisolo (Save 20% with code THEMILLERACRES)

Chiffon:

A lightweight, sheer fabric that has a soft drape. Chiffon is commonly used for dresses, blouses, and scarves.

Linen:

Linen is a natural fabric that is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It is a very old textile material, with evidence of linen fabrics dating back thousands of years. Linen is a lightweight and breathable fabric that is known for its durability and strength. It is also absorbent, making it a popular choice for clothing and household items such as towels and bedding. Linen is often used for summer clothing because of its coolness and ability to wick away moisture. It has a distinct texture and natural sheen that gives it a unique look and feel. Linen can be dyed easily and comes in a variety of colors, making it a versatile fabric for many different uses.

As you can see, there are many different types of knit and woven fabrics, each with its own unique characteristics and uses. When choosing a fabric for your project, start by reading your pattern to see if it calls for woven or knit fabric. Then, determine which type of woven or knit fabric you want to use.

Sewing Patterns: Pinafore Jumpsuit by Tiny Design Pattern Co. and Slouchy Beanie and Dolman Pullover by Lowland Kids

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Choosing Natural Fibers

It’s also important to consider the fiber content of the fabric. Both knit and woven fabrics can be made from a variety of fibers, including cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic materials. Each type of fiber has its own unique characteristics, which can affect the way the fabric feels and performs. For example, cotton is a popular choice for both knit and woven fabrics because it is soft, breathable, and easy to care for. Wool, on the other hand, is known for its warmth and moisture-wicking properties, making it a popular choice for cold-weather garments.

I prefer to use natural materials like cotton, wool, or linen as opposed to synthetics like polyester because they last longer and retain their shape and texture over time.

Getting Started with Knit and Woven Fabric

If you are completely new to sewing, I recommend starting with woven fabric like cotton or linen. You can make most woven patterns with a basic sewing machine, while knit fabric is much easier to work with if you have a serger as well. It is possible to sew knit fabric with a sewing machine if you use a stretch needle; however, if you plan to sew with knit fabric on a regular basis, I highly recommend investing in a serger.

Now that I have a serger, I personally think that knit fabric is easier to work with. It is stretchy, so it leaves more room for error as opposed to woven fabric which is rigid and stiff. But, there is a learning curve with learning how to thread and use a serger.

Knit fabric is great for baby clothes because it is soft and stretchy; however, I want to start sewing more woven pieces for myself because I love the look and feel of linen clothing!

Sewing Resources for Sewing Your Own Clothes

Click HERE for my Sew Your Own Capsule Wardrobe Planner to stay organized!

Have you tried sewing with both knit and woven fabric? Which one is your favorite to sew with?

Sewing Patterns: Lounge Sweats, Slim Cardigan, and Summer Cami by Lowland Kids